Saturday, March 21, 2026

Day 3 - A full Day in Guaramiranga (05Feb2026)

I was looking forward to a full day without travel and also the altitude meant cooler temps!  However, be careful what you wish for because mist and fog became troublesome for us.  The day started with a super early breakfast at the Hotel Alta da Serra and then a quick check of the birds onsite before setting out for a local expedition.


Ochre-backed Woodpecker - somehow I was able to salvage this shot by playing with contrast.  The bird was super high up in the canopy and although you cannot see it, mist was causing severe backlighting.  The marvels of modern photo editing.

Our next stop was the center of Guaramiranga to scan the pines for the super rare Yellow-faced Siskin.  Our guide Brad said this was the bird that kept him up at night and they sometimes miss it.  This was my hero moment!  I spotted one sitting way up in the canopy of a tall pine.


We got scopes on it and had high fives all around.


It moved to another perch that was even more backlit but at least we had another perspective.  These birds were heavily exploited in the pet bird trade and that probably led to some sightings in Venezuela (escapees).  For all intents and purposes this rare bird is a Brazilian endemic. 


Ochraceous Piculet - another northeast Brazilian endemic!


With the weight of finding the rarest bird of the day off our shoulders, we headed upslope to Pico Alto.   Unfortunately the fog was thick and although we did see some good birds right off the bat, the photo ops were challenging to say the least.  However, eventually the fog did lift and we traded fog for dark forest habitat to find some other specialty birds.


Ceara Gnateater!  Similar to the Rufous Gnateater which I saw on my first trip to Brazil, this one ranges across southeast Brazil and crosses over to Uruguay and Argentina. 

This is the same bird, just a different angle and based on the birds posture, the white eye-line can be hidden.


Buff-breasted Tody-Tyrant!  This is a Brazilian northeast endemic!  We got many good looks of this species over the next couple hours.

White-throated Spadebill - not an endemic, but a cool customer none-the-less.


Gray-headed Spinetail!  Another Brazilian northeast endemic!

We spent probably over an hour trying to photograph a Short-tailed Antthrush and also a Rufous-breasted Leaftosser but only a couple of people in the group got the photo of the latter.  The Antthrush is a major skulker and we only got brief glimpses of it after Brad located it using a thermal device he hooked up to his phone.  A combination of poor light and quick looks in dense foliage made photos of this species almost impossible.  In fact, I think this was the only bird of the whole trip that I saw but didn't get a photo of.  The Rufous-breasted Leaftosser miss was remedied later in the trip.

At this point it started to pour so we called it and headed into the van and made our way down slope to another preserve - Vale das Nuvens.  As we were getting out of the van, my leg inexplicably stopped hurting and I started to feel faint and had chest palpitations.  I thought to myself, this is it!  The blood clot in my leg had surely dislodged and had traveled to my lungs!  I didn't tell anyone because I figured there was nothing to be done, and I just waited....  Spoiler alert, I didn't die.  To this day I don't know if the clot did move and I don't know if the chest palpitations were just an anxiety attack or if it was something more dangerous, but I am grateful that it passed.  The good news is that I had plenty of awesome birds to take my mind away from my health issues.

Ceara Woodcreeper - yes another northeast Brazil endemic!


Buff-throated Woodcreeper - much more widespread so I was not upset that it stayed in backlit conditions.


Gray-headed Kite!  I was happy that I managed even this poor shot as it was just a  quick fly-by.



Band-tailed Manakin!  I was super excited to get such good views, not knowing that we would be crushing these at point blank a little later.

Lunch time!  We stopped at a great little restaurant with awesome geri-birding opportunities as it overlooked the same pond where we had a Masked Duck the day before.


Wattled Jacana


Purple Gallinule


Muscovy Duck


The Masked Duck was in the same exact same spot and if it didn't move its head every once in a while, I would have thought it was a decoy.


Pale-legged Hornero - back at the hotel now, I suppose for a siesta.  I never quite understand why these tours take siestas when they can.  I suppose old people like some down time and the middle of the day is usually slow for birds.  I feel old and tired but when I am traveling in a foreign country, it's all about maximizing the birding time.  Audrey joined me to look for goodies on the property.

Juvenile Pale-breasted Thrush

Planalto Woodcreeper - marginally better photos than the last one I saw in the Pantanal.


Rufous-breasted Hermit - I was camping out next to a stand of Heliconia to see if I could nab some Hermit pictures when I finally was able to get this photo.  We also saw a Reddish Hermit but they are tricky buggers to photograph.


Rufous-bellied Thrush

We set off for our evening jaunt at a reserve where they have a water hole and blind.  On the approach road we bagged this....


White-browed Guan - another Vulnerable northeast Brazilian endemic.


Sooty-fronted Spinetail - we saw these several times on the trip, but I never fully crushed one so this overexposed photo will have to do.


Red-cowled Cardinal - these beauties became super common starting at this point on the trip going all the way to the end.


Band-tailed Manakin - All 7 of us crowded behind a small crude hide made of palm fronds and waited for birds to come to the water hole and bathe.  Apparently manakins are habitual bathers.  I suppose when you have such crazy plumage and your life is spent trying to impress potential mates, you need to stay clean.



Golden-crowned Warbler


Rufous-bellied Thrush

Pectoral Sparrow - What a looker!  I thought it was special at the time, but we saw them many times later.


Fork-tailed Woodnymph - when you get close looks at birds you start to notice small imperfections.  


Many of the birds I was seeing up close had mites or parasites.  It's a tough world out there.

I took a million photos of birds at this blind but they are mostly of the same 3-4 species so I will spare you, dear readers.

That night after dinner in town, we tried for owls were able to spotlight a few Spectacled Owls way up in the canopy.



A great way to end the day!  I could see myself spending a week in this town on my own.  A very nice place.






Thursday, March 12, 2026

Day 2 of Brazil - Forquilha to Guaramiranga (04Feb2026)

As was a common theme on most of this trip, we were on the move almost every day.  Day 2 would start at Forquilha to mop up the species we missed on the previous day and then we headed out to our next destination of Guaramiranga with some stops along the way.  Basically this means we would be heading back southeast towards our starting point of Fortaleza but staying more inland this time.


The general route we followed on Day 2 although I cannot be sure of the specific roads.


Boat-billed Flycatcher - this species was fairly common but always in ones and twos throughout the trip.


Great Antshrike female.


Moustached Woodcreeper!!! This time our target was accommodating and put on a show for us.  I took a thousand photos of this endemic but I will spare you and post only a couple.


This species is Vulnerable per the IUCN criteria with a relatively small range in this region of Brazil.


Screaming Cowbird - the Wiki page for this species would lead you to believe their range is restricted to the southwest of Brazil, but eBird tells another story.  Perhaps they are expanding with the expansion of agricultural land.  To be honest I would have a hard time separating this from the Shiny Cowbird but Brad (guide and owner of Agami Tours) apparently heard it call.


Spot-backed Puffbird - this Caatinga specialist has a wide range in Brazil and we did see a couple on the Pantanal trip too, but they are not too common.


Crested Becard

With the main target in the bag, we headed to our next stop also in Forquilha, called Acude Arrebita.  Basically this was a privately owned ranch overlooking a large lake which hosts several species of Crake.  We started by birding a grove of trees with some moving flocks.




White-naped Jay


Green-backed Becard

Hooded Tanager - the light was not great for photography.

Pale Baywing - This is a northeast Brazil endemic and a sister species to the Grayish Baywing we saw in the Pantanal.


Plain-breasted Ground-dove - similar to Common Ground Dove but lacking the scaly patterns on the breast.


Snail Kites are super common in the right habitats in South America, but I cannot get enough of them.


Green-barred Woodpecker


Rufous-sided Crake - we tried hard for multiple species of crake and heard three of them, but only this one made a brief appearance. 


Wattled Jacanas have a striking lime-yellow wing pattern in flight.


Streaked Flycatcher

Chivi Vireo - South America's version of Red-eyed or Yellow-green Vireos.


Rufous Cacholotes


White-faced Whistling-Ducks!


Cobalt-rumped Parrotlet


Cactus Parakeet - a Brazilian northeast endemic but quite common.  

It was getting very hot in this spot so we had some refreshments provided by the farmer in the shade.  I love when we are able to partake in the foods that the locals eat and here we were able to sample some of the local cheese and corn tamale-like pastry. Yum!

Back on the road!

Audrey and I kept a running list of birds along the way, mostly at gas stations so that we could see our route in our eBird Trip List.  I will share the complete trip list so you can see the graphic on my last post.  

Gray-breasted Martins were common at gas stations throughout the trip.

We stopped at a great little roadside restaurant about half way to our next destination and it happened to have some bird activity around the back.


Picui Dove

Streaked Flycatcher


One common thing you will see throughout the trip is bird pictures where the bird's mouth is open.  You may think this is because I caught them singing or calling, but actually they are panting because it was HOT!


Tropical Gnatcatcher


Common Tody Flycatcher


Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl

I should have taken pic of the restaurant, because it was one of the nicer ones we visited.  We got back on the road for another 3 or so hours drive to Guaramiranga at the Hotel Alto da Serra.  We arrived early enough in the afternoon to bird the hotel a bit and then up the slope for some quick stops before dinner in town.  Guaramiranga is at about 865 meters elevation (2837 feet) and is near to Pico Alto (3655 feet) which is the highest elevation spot in the state of Ceara.


Guianan Tyrannulet - as the name implies this tyrannulet is found further north in Guiana but it spills over into northeast Brazil.



Red-necked Tanager - this eye-popping tanager is mostly found in the Atlantic forests of the southeast of Brazil, but we caught them in their northern limits here.


Blue Dacnis


Versicolored Emerald

In the little town of Guaramiranga, we stopped at a little pond.


Masked Duck!  This was a long overdue lifer for me.  And a drake at close range to boot!

Yellow-chevroned Parakeets destroying this local's banana crop.

We headed further up the slope and stopped at an overlook which provided some eye-level views of a roving flock.


Golden-crowned Warbler


Short-crested Flycatcher


Variable Antshrike - a widespread species but the best looks I ever had up to now.



Zone-tailed Hawk

Red-necked Tanager


Blue Dacnis


Social Flycatcher


Burnished-buff Tanager


Gray-breasted Parakeet!!  This was the biggest target bird for this area and in fact has a tiny range centered here.  They have a Threatened status per IUCN criteria and are the benefactor of some serious efforts to protect them including the building of nest boxes.  There is a hotel up the slope from Guaramiranga where seemingly the whole population of these birds hangs out.  This is where we ended our birding for the day before heading down to Guaramiranga for dinner.



Pale-breasted Thrush


Gould's Toucanet! This bonus bird was calling as the sun began to set and we were able to entice it in.



After dinner we headed back to the hotel and settled in for the night.  I went to sleep listening to a pair of Spectacled Owls outside the hotel room.  Don't worry dear readers, we would meet this owl again the next night.